Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and tourists equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, UNESCO designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a exclusive roster of global cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it joins a global network of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "demonstrates its centuries-old food heritage and dynamic culinary scene," according to a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this venerable city arrives as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the global gaze for what has always defined its heart: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a continued conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and taken to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of food experimentation, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on countless corners, there are little shops and stalls – hidden gems that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is precise and demanding. The artisan beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however note that their younger generation do not want to take up the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will motivate more people globally to discover these narratives and travel to the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
